DIY Refinishing Project- 55 Gallon Tank Stand & Canopy
Happy Blog Day!
This Tuesday I'm excited to cover one of my favorite aquarium projects i've done to date- the transformation of my 55 gallon tank stand and canopy! I originally purchased this stand and canopy with the glass aquarium in 2015 (300$) and it was a really outlandish orange oak colour. It seemed really sturdy, despite being manufactured in 1992, but I couldn't enjoy it in my main living space like I wanted to because it clashed horribly with all of my (reasonably coordinated) decor.
I researched the project and couldn't find any walkthroughs that I liked for doing the tank stand so I decided to read a few pinterest posts on refinishing old dressers and bedroom furniture. This worked really well for me since I intended to install hardware (drawer pull and cupboard handles) and there were a lot of examples of distressing furniture and various gray wood stains. It also went more with my personal style as all of the Aquarium project posts I looked at were done by men for their decor tastes and all of them ended up painted black- clean and versatile but not the home chic look I wanted.
I started by gathering materials. My total costs including paint sponges, paint brushes, replacing the door hinges, hardware, mouse sander, sanding supplies, sheeting for covering the basement, oil-based stains and varnishes ended up being approximately 125$
My materials used were:
Black & Deckers Hand Sander (with catch container) 39.99$
Extra pkg of sanding pads 5.99$
Sanding blocks 2pk 3.99$
Varathane Oil-Based stain "Sun-bleached Grey" 17$
Minwax polyurethane oil-based clear coat 9.40$
Cupboard Hinges 2pk 3.99$
Crystal cabinet knobs x2 11.48$
Drawer handle 5.99$
Paintbrush for clear coat 11.99$
Sponge Paintbrushes 4.15$
Roll of clear sheeting 10.75$
Before you get started set your furniture on something to raise it up if you can, and cover the area in sheeting to protect it- even with a catch for sawdust on my sander it still makes a horrendous mess, leaving a fine film of dust on everything. Don't wear nice boots.
Step 1:
I started off by wiping the unit clean and sanding the canopy and stand. I didn't realize until I started that the unit was made of multiple materials- wood boards, double thick press-wood and oak veneer. This meant I had to have a really gentle hand when sanding so I didn't buff the grain right out of the thin veneer. I removed the cupboard doors and drawer and sanded them individually. Sanding took approximately 10 hours in total but someone with more experience than me would have been faster.
*Tip: Do not sand for more than 2 or 3 hours at a time if you don't do it normally! I gave myself such horrible hand and arm cramps the first day (5.5 hours of sanding with no breaks) that I couldn't grip anything for a day or two after and I cried a little.
*Note: This is the point where you should drill any holes you need to for hardware etc. I did mine after staining and sealing, which was a pain since I made a mess I had to clean and then had to touch up my stain and clear coat.
Pic 1: The Tank stand and canopy in it's original orange oak, as you can see there is no hardware.
Pic 2: The side view of the tank stand with the older brass-y hinges.
Pic 3: The sanded canopy sitting on top of the un-sanded body of the stand.
Pic 4: A lightly sanded door vs. a completely sanded door.
Step 2:
Once I had completely sanded the inside and outside of the stand and canopy I made sure to do a solid vacuum/clean up and did a few wipe downs of the unit with a cloth or jerry rag. This was really important because any particles or sawdust left on the surface would show up textually and aesthetically in the finished product. Once it was all clean and clear I applied a thin, light white wash and let it dry. Then I laid my first layer of gray stain, allowed it to dry 48 hours, laid a second coat, left it for 48 hours and repeated the process a 3rd time. At the end of this stage I had fully stained my stand and canopy to the colour I desired.
*Optional: This was the point where I used a medium grade sanding block and distressed my stand and canopy. You want to do this before sealing it because a) it would be annoying to sand through clear coat unnecessarily and then have to re-apply the clear coat to seal it again and b) because the exposed wood you reveal when distressing will darken nicely when the sealant is added.
Pic 5: Fully stained and dried tank stand and canopy- no clear coat laid.
Pic 6: Fully stained, distressed and fully coated/sealed tank stand and canopy- inside and out.
Pic 7: The fully stained, distressed and sealed canopy.
Pic 8: Below is a photo of the sealed bed of the tank stand where the aquarium will set into. I made sure to sand and seal this part really well as I had previously noticed it getting dripped on during water changes.
Step 3:
This is the point where I started using my oil based polyurethane to seal the job. I was baffled when I bought the set and realized it was untreated, raw wood on the inner rim and contact surfaces of the stand, as well as inside where I house my chiller and canister filtration. No matter how cautious I try to be there are drips and runs of water that end up on the tank stand, even if i'm just rearranging the plants or decor, feeding etc. Therefore I was determined to do as much as possibly to preserve the unit to the best of my ability and prolong it's durability.
I applied a thin coat of polyurethane using a brush- this is important! You want to always use a brush for even distribution of clear coat, other types leave excess behind or end up looking streaked. I let this dry 48 hours and then repeated the process 4x. For most projects three coats is enough but since this was a piece of furniture that would be in frequent contact with water I wanted to be extra cautious. The process of coating took 1 week from first coat to all coats dry and done.
Step 4:
The final step was adding the hardware. I borrowed a power drill from a family member and drilled the 4 holes I needed (2 for the drawer pull and one for each door knob). Once the holes were drilled I hand sanded the edges and used a little paint brush to touch up the clear coat. Then I used the post screws that came with the hardware and screwed them all on and together. As a final touch I removed the old brass hinges on the doors and replaced them with brushed stainless steel ones.
Detail shots of the crystal/brushed steel knobs I chose (left), and a close up of the style of distressing I did on the edges of the canopy and tank stand before sealing them.
Which brings us to the end! Over all I found the project to be labour intensive and kind of meticulous but a good, cost-effective way of having a display setup to showcase my Axolotl colony! My home space is very important to me and I can't believe the difference 120$ of supplies and 10hrs of work made- it's like a whole new piece of furniture. Being selective about the products used and taking the time to get good coverage and repair any damage means I will get to enjoy this chic piece of home decor for years to come.
FINALLY, THE END RESULT
Thanks for reading guys and as always feel free to e-mail me at axolotlalley@gmail.com with any questions!
*Website Progress- 70% complete! The "Diet" page is now complete ahead of schedule and no longer under construction. I start work on the Biology & Breeding page tomorrow with an estimated 2 week completion timeline.
Take care Everyone and see you next week,
-Amy B