This was one of the places in Orkney I wanted to revisited. When your younger you race about in places like this. They become another tick in a list. You are chasing tides and have so many other things on your mind. Sea stack climbing is never dull it’s getting the weather right the tides and the right companions.
Yesterday we went to the cliffs and had one of the most superb dramatic wanders along to Yesnabay. Again we went early to miss the weather and the people. We parked at the old gun battery and headed out for an incredible wander along these wild cliffs.
“The Castle is found just south of the Brough of Bigging in Yesnaby on the west coast of Orkney mainland. (GR 218154) The stack was made famous by Joe Brown and his mates who made the first ascent in 1967, subsequently this stack and the Old Man of Hoy are the only two stacks in Orkney who regularly receive assaults by visiting climbers. “ a quote from an old guide book. Nowadays there are a lot of climbs in the area.
The sea is even on a benign day like yesterday crashing below the cliffs. Little showers of foam dance from the waves crashing into the rocks. It’s like a snowy day with big snow flakes on the hills. There are so many caves and Geo’s about and the power of the sea is always with you.
We stopped often in the sun looking and watching the ever changing views. The birds are mostly gone as are the flowers the sea pinks that cover the cliffs now dead. Yet next year they will be back like the birds.
As you pass each Geo more cliffs are seen. There is only a few stakes on one headland to show they have been visited by climbers. They use the stakes to abseil into the cliffs and as belays. In some areas the cliff tops are so battered by the wind it reminded me of the Cairngorm plateau.
It is a place on a day like this of great beauty. We saw no dolphins or whales only the noise of the waves crashing below at times.Each break we spent longer in the sun enjoying the heat. I even took my duvet and hat off.
My memories were coming back: I remember a joint exercise with A couple of Lochaber Rescue Team one was Shaun MacLean a canoe adventure to the stacks that was according to Shaun more scary than the climb. Great characters like the late Ted Atkins and Smudge Smith whilst I was team leader. Praying things did not go wrong it was a crazy balance at the time.Yet these mutual experiences made us trust each other even more on the Call outs that lay ahead. Looking back it was a huge responsibility as team leader the troops were always pushing you with their plans and ideas. Yet this is what made them special and it was worth it in the end.
We wandered back there was no rush “Kalie the weather” said things would change in the afternoon with the weather coming in. As always she was right.
We headed into Stromness for a brew and cake bought some local beef for tea and headed back as the rain was about to start. This was a great day, one I will never forget and to have time to spend with no rush is unique. It’s like going back in time to adventures past sharing stories and getting other folks memories. Everyday is so important as are the folk who make those memories. It was a different world then few recorded climbs there was little written about them. All climbs were graded Very Severe so you never knew what to expect. It was the idea then to keep these areas fairly unwritten about so other generations could share the adventures as if it was a first ascent.
As we headed back to the car we saw a young “ boulderer” with his huge mat on his back heading along the cliff top. Things change but the spirit of adventure still lies in these wild places.
Thanks for a great day Kalie and Islay a special day.
Top Tip : If you get a chance to visit these places or have adventures savour them. Don’t become an “Instagram moment “ enjoy whatever the weather brings and write down what you did and enjoyed.
Comments as always welcome .
The buildings there are “Close Range AA Training Establishment”.
There are some picture on the Orkney Image Library of climbers there.
https://photos.orkneycommunities.co.uk/picture/number4713.asp
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Thank you climbed there many years ago!
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