More than 60 years after Jackie Kennedy first visited this small island in the Cyclades and thrust it into the limelight, the pull of glittering Mykonos is still strong. During summer, the jet and yacht set cruise in alongside throngs of travelers eager to party, snap Instagram photos, and see and be seen. And with the island's sprawling and sandy beaches (a rare find in the rocky Cyclades) it’s not hard to see why. But the island has a long-beloved, quieter side than the beach party scene would lead you to believe.
“Whatever architecture has to say, it is said here”, Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier once said of Mykonos—an artist-community island that has long inspired writers, photographers, and designers. Within seconds of your arrival, Le Corbusier’s musings will become clear: Mykonos knows its architectural style. A Venetian-inspired, cubic design underpins much of the island’s aesthetic, and coordinates everything from the western ports to lively “town,” and the small, sleepy villages in the east. Whitewashed buildings are a given in the Cyclades, and in Mykonos they’re dotted along narrow, warren-like lanes and decorated with wooden balconies in varying shades of red, blue, and yellow.
It’s an aesthetic that inspired one of the island’s most notable new hotels, Domes Noruz Mykonos. Opened in early July of 2023, it showcases Cycladic-design with 38 flat-roofed, whitewashed suites, some with private pools. Sun-dappled pathways lead towards a central pool, and views across the Aegean come as standard. An adult-only hotel, DJs spin poolside tracks until the early-hours, embodying the Mykonos vibe.
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The best things to do in Mykonos, Greece
While the party-centric side of town may steal all the limelight, there’s also a flourishing food scene towards the island’s southwest, beach clubs aplenty along the southern coastline, untouched sands on the east side, and some charming, traditional tavernas in between. Not to mention, ancient ruins and mythology to explore.
If you’re intent on exploring Mykonos’ bustling and waterfront “town” area, start early. It’s a sleep all day, party all night kind of place, but this comes with benefits for early-birds: Head to Little Venice to bag one of the best tables on the island; a waterside seat overlooking the famous windmills—just don’t arrive too early, as nothing opens before 9:00 am. Order a Freddo Cappuccino and bask in the solitude before wandering the empty (ish) streets. Don’t miss Panagia Paraportiani, a complex of churches built on top of each other between the 14th and 17th centuries; they’re the most photographed churches on the island but, if you get your timing right, you may catch them sans crowds.
The streets in Mykonos Town may be small, but hidden within you’ll find Gucci and Louis Vuitton alongside art galleries, souvenir shops, and local boutiques: ‘ergon Mykonos and Anna Maria Mazaraki are two of the best local options. If shopping is high on your agenda, make a beeline for Nammos Village, a beachside destination on the south of the island stocking all the luxury brands, and more. Pair your spree with afternoon-lounging turned late-night partying at one of the many beach clubs in the area; there’s neighboring Nammos, of course, but Scorpios, Kalua, and Super Paradise are also nearby. To name just a few.
When shopping, lounging and partying become a bore, nearby Delos island is a 30-minute ferry ride away. It’s the mythological birthplace of Apollo—whose son (or grandson), Mycons, became the first ruler of Mykonos, bestowing it his name. It’s also one of the richest archeological sites in Greece, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Or, head east for the lesser-known, lesser-crowded beaches. Twenty-minutes by car from Mykonos Town is Agios Sostis or, 25-minutes away, Fokos. Both are stunning, untouched, secluded beaches with superb local tavernas: Kiki’s and Fokos. Be prepared to queue for food.
Where to eat in Mykonos
Kiki’s and Fokos, of course. They’re worth the drive for the food alone, but it helps that they have good views too. Fokos, on the northeast coast, is one of the most authentic tavernas on the island; visit for a lunch or dinner of fresh fish, lamb chops and overflowing salads. A 20-minute drive south from here is Spilia, a restaurant and cocktail bar not only overlooking, but also overhanging the sea, with true sea-to-plate dining. Don’t be surprised if you watch as your lobster is plucked from a pool in front of you. If you’re on a foodie road trip, part way between the two is Rizes, a family-run, farm-to-fork dining experience set in five-acres of farmland. It stays true to the owner’s Mykonian roots; pop in for lunch or take a cooking or bread making class, each baked—or woven—with local traditions.
Epicures, take note: the southwest of the island has a thriving scene. At Ornos Beach you’ll find plenty of tasty spots; La Cantine du Faubourg is one of the latest. After opening in Paris more than two decades ago it took over Dubai, opening a staggering 11 restaurants and beach clubs in the glitzy Emirate since 2015, and has now set eyes on Mykonos: doors here opened in 2022 serving eager diners a Japanese-Mediterranean menu. Nearby, Apaggio is an easy-going seafood spot with a view, and the menu at Mykonos Social by Jason Atherton is inspired by his years of traveling around the Greek islands. Continue west, to Beefbar Mykonos in Agios Ioannis, for their globally-tried-and-tested Leaf, Beef and Reef concept; it’s heavy on the Reef at lunchtimes here, which makes sense given the waterside location.
See, not all the best restaurants are in town. But many great ones are, including lusted-after global names such as Zuma, Bagatelle, Matsuhisa, and Coya—this is Mykonos after all—but there are also lots of Greek-owned restaurants worth taste-testing too. Apanemi is new to Mykonos for 2023, has a great sunset view, and whips up dishes using local produce from local farmers; M-eating serves traditional Mykonian and Cycladic dishes with a twist, and Katrin is one of the oldest restaurants in Mykonos—order the stuffed vine leaves with rice and minced meat in an egg-lemon sauce.
And what would Mykonos be without sundowners? Cocco Mykonos, Negrita, and Veranda are some of the most coveted seats in town thanks to their waterside locations, directly opposite the windmills, while 180° Sunset Bar and SKYBAR— both rooftop spaces—are ideal for a panoramic view as the sun sinks into the sea.
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Where to stay
There’s no Greek island with better hotel options. But first you’ll need to determine why you’re in Mykonos: if your main goal is to party ‘til the small hours then the town center is where you need to be; for the ultimate resort experience that’s both party- and family-friendly, centrally located yet private right in Ornos Bay, Santa Marina Mykonos makes our Gold List. For a more relaxed, beachy escape (that still offers plenty to do) head south; for utter seclusion, the east of the island calls.
One of the island’s newest hotels, Domes Noruz Mykonos, is a sheltered spot just a ten-minute drive from town; it’s far enough away to feel exclusive but close enough for you to be part of the action anytime you want. The clean, white rooms at Cavo Tagoo lean into a Cycladic aesthetic; many boast private pools and some even have cave pools—somewhat more reminiscent of nearby Santorini but nonetheless, enviably photo-worthy. Perhaps the most surprising ambience is at Belvedere Hotel though, which, although central, emanates a serene yet upbeat vibe, day through night. Its views—across the town towards the sea—are hard to beat.
In the south, beachside Mykonos Blu stuns not only with its contemporary interiors but with the views from them too: it overlooks Psarou beach, one of the nicest—and trendiest—bays on the island. For true rock ‘n’ roll vibes, book the Lanu Blu Suite (room 321); it comes with a 20-square-meter private pool in the living area—the perfect place for after the after-party. Moving west, Once in Mykonos opened in 2022 and is a private villa converted into a 59-room, boho-chic hotel, and Myconian O is a peaceful escape. Further west still, check in to Bill & Coo Suites for the ultimate in sophistication, with views across to Delos.
Given the ‘place-to-be’ status that Mykonos has enjoyed over the many centuries since Jackie Kennedy’s visit, its eastern half has seen surprisingly little development. But don’t be fooled, those that have set up shop—or in this case, accomodation—have done so with a savvy eye; one that embraces slow living and privacy. The Wild by Interni, Cali Mykonos and Myconian Avaton dot the southeastern coastline providing elegant hideaways in the middle of, well, not much, besides nature. Perfect for those seeking solitude.
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