It's Time to Give Durian the Respect It Deserves

Durian isn't called "The King of Fruits" for nothing. It's a fruit that makes itself known, with sharp green spikes and a distinct scent reminiscent of garlic and bananas. Although durian is not often seen on menus across the United States (outside of Hawaii), it is prized across Southeast Asia. Durian trees grow tall through Thailand, Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, and can survive for centuries. They thrive in hot climates and grow after the monsoon season, sprouting flowers during the dry period that follows.

Most people know durian for the smell — something that is often exaggerated, damaging the reputation of a fruit that is so versatile, well-loved, and complex. So here's what you really need to know about durian, and why it's time to try it yourself.

Types of durian to know

There are more than 500 types of durian — we asked chefs around the world to share their favorites.

Musang King

“This durian is prized for its buttery flesh that has a special combination of sweet and bitter flavors,” says pastry chef Michelle Goh of Mia in Bangkok. Although it’s most commonly grown in Malaysia, Musang King is the world’s most popular variety.

Monthong Durian

Translating to “golden pillow,” Monthong is the most popular Thai durian. They’re generally large with an ovular shape and a milder smell compared to other varieties. Its flesh is thick, creamy, and sweet, with notes of caramel.

Kan Yao

This species is exclusively grown in the Nonthaburi region of Thailand, making it one of the most expensive durians in the world. It has a custard-like flesh, which chef Parkorn Kosiyabong of The G.O.A.T in Bangkok uses to thicken cream or coconut bases.

Durian Hokkien

Grown in the jungles of Malaysia, this wild durian is small enough to fit in your palm. “Its flesh comes in many different colors, from yellow to orange to bright red,” says Goh. The fruit is creamy but slightly drier and milder than that of other species.

Puyat

Puyat is one of the most accessible varieties of durian grown in the Philippines. “[The flesh] is sweet but has a little bit of bitterness,” says Jordy Navarra, chef and owner of Toyo Eatery in Manila. It’s known for having a large pear shape and thick brown spikes.

Durian Baan

Unlike other types of durian, Thai Durian Baan (also known as Durian Kampung in Malaysia, "Native" in the Philippines, and Sầu Hát in Vietnam) is technically an unnamed variety. Durian Baan is planted directly by the seed, making each tree unique. "These fell out of fashion for a while because they are unpredictable," says Lindsay Gasik, founder of the durian-focused blog, travel company, and delivery service, Year of the Durian. "Due to genetic variability, you don't know for sure what you're going to get." Many consider this type of durian to be more natural, especially because many Durian Baan trees have existed for 100 to 150 years. "Older trees mean better quality fruit and a specific taste you can't get from younger trees," Gasik adds.

What does durian taste like?

Durian can often be found at local Asian grocery stores or markets, but if you don't have either nearby, here are four other ways to experience the flavor of durian.

Freeze-packed durian fruit

Explore the dreaminess of durian varieties like pink-fleshed Red Prawn and peanut-buttery Bottle Gourd with Year of the Durian. In addition to vacuum-sealed durian meat, you can get the whole durian fruit (shipped frozen) from Miami Fruit.

To buy: Build Your Own Year of the Durian Box, from $60 at yearofthedurian.com; Miami Fruit Durian Party Box, $477 at miamifruit.org

Durian ice cream

Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream mellows durian’s strong flavor with banana, resulting in these delicious, well-balanced pints. 

To buy: Morgenstern's Durian Banana Ice Cream, $104 for four pints at morgensternsnyc.com

Freeze-dried durian

Freeze-drying durian transforms the texture into a crunchy treat. Dong Ming Bridge sells freeze-dried Monthong, a sweet, yellow-fleshed durian that Gasik recommends dipping in chocolate. 

To buy: Dong Ming Bridge Freeze-Dried Durian Monthong, $9 at sayweee.com

Durian mochi

Mochi makes for an easy, sweet treat — look for something made from real durian fruit, not essence, such as Royal Family. $3 at justasianfood.com

To buy: Royal Family Durian Mochi (2-pack), $18 at amazon.com

3 ways to cook with durian

Ferment it

Goh’s family ferments leftover durian to make tempoyak, a funky condiment used to boost the flavor of dips and curries. But usually they’ll transform the tempoyak into a spicy dip by stir-frying it with dried shrimp, shallots, chiles, and sugar.

Fry it

At Toyo, Navarra has served durian cheese balls — fried dough filled with a mixture of fresh cheese and durian, topped with more grated cheese.

Ice it

Durianism Café in Bangkok is a “rest stop for durian lovers.” Their version of bingsu, or Korean shaved ice, is durian-flavored and topped with crispy bread, ice cream, coconut sticky rice, and fresh durian.

How to break down a durian

1. Put on a pair of plastic gloves to protect your hands from the spikes.
2. Check if the durian is ripe by pressing in between the spikes. If the fruit yields to the pressure, it’s ready.
3. Make a couple of slits along the durian’s base, following its natural seams.
4. Following the slits, slice the durian into wedges.
5. Pull out the flesh using your hands, separating it from its shell and pits. Eat chilled or at room temperature.