How to plan a weekend in Murcia, one of Spain's most underrated regions

Wedged between the popular coastal destinations of Málaga and Alicante, the region of Murcia occupies a stretch of southern Spain too often neglected by international travellers. Sea coves and quiet beaches characterise its 155 miles of sunny coastline, beyond which lie hills, farmlands, dense forests and valleys perfect for hiking. Reliably balmy year-round temperatures make the province a good option for off-season travel — yet even at the height of summer, you’re unlikely to see the crowds so often found in other Mediterranean regions.  

Murcia has witnessed a varied history — the Romans, Carthaginians and Moors have all left a legacy, which is evident in the area’s architecture, agriculture and festivities.

Gateway to this region is the city of the same name — Murcia, a provincial capital with regular flights from the UK that has the energy of a big city thanks to its university, yet remains intimate and walkable. Stroll past baroque cathedrals along cobblestoned streets, or indulge in a tardeo — the afternoon tradition of hanging out with friends, typically with tapas, beer and live music at terrace bars.

Day 1: Saints & city strolling 

Morning
Wander through the narrow alleyways of Murcia’s old town, towards the magnificent Catedral de Murcia, which has the second-tallest bell tower in Spain. Audio guides can be hired for a history lesson on the church’s eclectic blend of baroque, Renaissance and gothic architecture. Exit through the ‘Door of the Apostles’, carved with angels and kings from the Old Testament, to reach Calle Traperia. A hub for fabric merchants and silversmiths in the 14th century, it’s now peppered with boutique shops. From here, it’s an easy walk to the city’s 19th-century Romea Theatre. Legend has it that a friar cursed the building, as it stands on the site of a former convent.

Afternoon
The region is nicknamed the ‘Garden of Europe’ due to its fertile soil and extensive farmlands — the produce of which can be seen at Mercado de Veronicas. Browse the market’s seasonal fruit and veg — peaches and melons in summer, artichokes in autumn — and local seafood such as jumbo Carabinero prawns, sea bream and sea bass. A number of small canteens in the market will cook or grill your chosen fish while you sip on a café cortado. After lunch, visit the Royal Casino — not a gambling den, but a former gentlemen’s club. Built in 1847, it’s designated a National Historical Building. The €5 (£4.30) entry fee allows you to admire its Moorish-style foyer, chandelier-hung ballroom and frescoes. 

Evening
Before dusk, take a 15-minute drive south of the city up to the Sanctuary of La Fuensanta, a magnificent hillside church set amid orange and pomegranate trees, housing the patron saint of Murcia. It’s a great spot to admire views of the city as the sky turns amber and pink, but don’t miss the fine baroque details inside, including gold-plated Corinthian columns and frescoes depicting Murcian folklore. For dinner, head back to the city to grab an outdoor  table in El Secreto in Plaza de Las Flores — a lively square dotted with flower stalls and restaurants, with a small central fountain. Order a beer and join the locals snacking on tapas such as pulpo al horno (baked octopus) while listening to accordion players who busk in the squares. 

Day 2: Cobblestone streets & canyons 

Morning
Drive west about 30 minutes to explore the pilgrimage town of Caravaca de la Cruz, home to the Caravaca Cross. This double crucifix, flanked by two angels, is believed to possess healing powers. The symbol appears all over town, from the city’s coat of arms to signposts, but make sure you drop by the Basilica of Vera Cruz de Caravaca to see the original. A few metres away lies Calle Cuesta Castillo, a cobbled street famous for its annual Los Caballos del Vino horse race — a local tradition that can be traced to the time when the town was ruled by Moors. Learn more about it at the Museo Caballos del Vino, which displays the dazzling embroidered cloaks worn by the horses during the celebration. 

Afternoon
Make a lunch stop in the old town of Cehegin, a 10-minute drive east. Restaurant El Sol’s rooftop offers views over the cascading whitewashed houses and is a good place to try local wines from Murcia’s Jumilla region alongside calamares rellenos — stuffed squid. Spend the rest of the afternoon exploring further north, amid rice paddies in Calasparra — one of the prominent rice-growing regions of the country. The road leads to Almadenes Canyon, a deep gorge where you can hike or join a rafting adventure on the Segura River with Cañon y Cañon. The region is home to river otters, turtles and herons. Tours typically stop at the canyon’s UNESCO-listed Monigotes Cave, scrawled with Neolithic rock art. 

Evening
The area between Caravaca de la Cruz and Murcia city is home to such a high concentration of natural thermal springs that it has a ‘spa route’. Heading east back towards Murcia, a good place to dip a toe is the town of Archena, where Romans discovered springs and built the first baths here around the second century BCE. The town’s historic spa complex, the Balneario de Archena, feeds off the mineral spring with sulphurous waters erupting from Moorish fountains. After a soak, head back to Murcia for dinner at Salzillo. This traditional restaurant specialises in regional dishes such as paparajotes — a Murcian dessert of batter-fried lemon leaves dusted with cinnamon.

Go further adventures along Costa Cálida

Hormigas Islands
Protected since 1995, this marine reserve bordering the Cabo de Palos peninsula is considered one of the best diving destinations in Spain, if not Europe. The marine life includes octopus, moray eels, eagle rays and, occasionally, sunfish. Posidonia seagrass meadows, gardens of corals and underwater rock pinnacles make dives all the richer, and it’s also common to see huge bait balls, which attract larger predators such as barracuda and tuna. Deep drop-offs can plummet to around 230ft and the waters also harbour shipwrecks such as El Naranjito — a cargo ship that sank in the 1940s. Trips can be booked with dive operators such as Adventure Divers, which also offers snorkelling, paddleboarding and jet skiing.

Town-hopping
In the far west of Costa Cálida, visit Águilas, where the area’s rich neolithic history can be explored at the Águilas Archaeological Museum. Surrounded by unspoilt coves, the town is also an excellent jumping off point for dives around Cabo Cope. Estela Diving Tours offers day and night dives. About a 45-minute drive east is the harbour town of Cartagena, founded by the Carthaginians around 227 BCE. Take a guided walking tour to learn more about the town’s naval history and modernist architecture, and explore the impressive Museo del Teatro Romano — a restored Roman amphitheatre from the period when Cartagena was a thriving Roman town, around the first century BCE.

Beaches & boat charters
Playa de Levante, a vast expanse of white sand peppered with chiringuitos (beach bars), is one of Costa Cálida’s finest beaches. Order a beer or tinto de verano at Bocana de Palos restaurant, with a portion of caldero (Murcian paella). Or follow the easy hiking trail west from the beach to Balcon de Cala Flores. At the fishermen’s village of Cabo de Palos, another option is to hire a boat for a two-hour jaunt along the coastline. The boats come with a skipper and there are four routes to choose from. The pick is the one that takes in the Calblanque Regional Park, an area fringed with golden sands and rocky bays where you can stop for a swim and keep an eye out for dolphins.